Mountain lions in the backcountry

I want to upgrade my current bike to front suspension but the geometry is all I have ridden bicycles in the backcountry since 1972. My father started backcountry bike touring in the mid-60′s. Several of my friends and acquaintences have been taking backcountry bike camping trips for more than ten years. There are many equipment manufacturers who have been making paniers and trailers for backcountry bicyclists for years, and the business seems to be growing, not shrinking. Suffice it to say that backcountry biking is alive and well, though you may have rarely if ever witnessed it. Kinda like mountain lions in the backcountry, if you will–just because you don’t see them (often) doesn’t mean they aren’t there.

 

As for the history of bicycling discussions in rec.backcountry, those have gone on for years, too. Some of the most long running threads turned into shoot-outs between bicyclists, equestrians, and opponents of either or both of those two groups of backcountry travelers. I can understand your frustration with Vandeman’s penchant for broadcasting his rants to a variety of newsgroups where few if any readers are interested in his posts, but that is an issue to take up with him, or his ISP; it is not an excuse for insisting that a backcountry user group with which you have apparently little experience be banned from rec.backcountry discusssion wrong and it will not take the very straight forks as there would be insufficient clearance for the front wheel.

 

Therefore I am looking for a new bike. My problem is that I am 4’10″ tall and need probably an extra small version. I want something as light and well spec’d as possible – full suspension is not necessary. It seems that few companies produce really small frames. Can anyone suggest something suitable? Probably your best bet would be to go for a custom built frame, and move all your equipment off your old bike. You could try local frame builders, the FAQ has a few in there. Islabikes specialise in bikes for the smaller female, but I don’t have any phone numbers, or anything. Does anyone else know where they are?

Top manufacturers of Mountain Bikes

I am looking to purchase a mountain bike but it is hard getting an objective view on which mountain bikes are best. I would appreciate anyone emailing me thier list of top tem manufacturers of Mountain Bikes. You really are asking the wrong question. It depends on how long you have ridden. The type of riding you do and the price you are able to pay. I may be able to afford a $3,000 fully suspended bike but would I actually make use of it?? Your weight, height and build also play a role in which bike to purchase. As will most things you cannot take the easy way out.

 

Read articles hit as many local bike stores as possiable and try some bikes. Maybe if possiable speak to some local riders. If you take all the above into consideration you will probably narrow your search down to 2-3 bikes. Then you choice will be much easier. Another reason you should take the above advice seriously is because if I were to answer you question being less objective my answer would be, i have to plug my bike. i ride a giant mcm-

 

1. i ride it hard. and just the other day i was nailed by a car…blindsided me! i don’t know if it was luck or what but i made it with only some bruises and the only thing that happened to the bike was the cranks bought it and the back rim was kinda flattened. but the frame is still perfectly intact. i will say that i’m lucky with this frame…the geometry is perfect for me. and that’s the best advise i can give. stick with some of the big names and find a frame that fits. giant, trek, cannondale, gary fisher…they are all good companies and all make solid bikes. or even klein. just test them out.

Slicks for mountain bikes

Tread is not required for clean wet pavement on a bicycle. According to Jobst Brandt’s calculations you’d have to go much faster than we ride to hydroplane one. However tread helps when riding over wet leaves. And a slick I have with siping grooves handles those better than my completely slick tires – but the completely slick tires are faster. > I think the Continental Town & Country will be good for the mountain bikes but I have no idea what would serve best for the BMX bike.

 

I might choose any slick but the Contis, simply because of their reputation for a tight fit and difficult flat fixes. I think there are slicks for the BMX bikes, since there are small wheeled bents and folders that use slicks. Amen to that brother! I have a pair of Conti “Goliaths”, and though they are a nice tire, they are a PAIN to try and install. Darn near broke my thumb trying to push that last bit of bead over the rim… For the BMX bike, get the Maxxis Hookworms or Ringworms. Any “flatlander” tire made for “freestyle” bmx bikes will work, but these two are readily available and have 110 psi casings (they’re our best seller, especially the black/orange/grey and the black/white/black versions) The Hookworms have the smoothest tread, but the Ringworms may be better for the kids as an all-round tire.

Who makes the jeep brand of mountain bikes?

I sorta disagree. I have toured on both mountain bikes and road bikes. I’ve toured through Europe and along Highway One on a road bike and in Hawaii and Northern California on a mountain bike, and the differences I found are such: 1) Lower back pain — I found that I was a lot more comfortable over the long haul on a road bike. I was stretched out more, which is much better for cramping and for general muscle fatigue. Mountain bike frames are generally made for riding single track, or at least on the dirt; if you are touring on dirt roads, then this works fine, but the tube angle and the short top tube length will definately affect you after about mile # 90.

 

If you look at the geometry of the classic touring frames, you’ll find much more relaxed angles than say a Klien Quantum. This is to provide the rider with the maximum comfort for the times he/she spends 8 or 9 hours in the saddle. 2) Availability of parts — This far too often overlooked, but in this case I found that a mountain bike is far better off than a road bike. Bike shops are full of mountain bike parts due to the popularity of mountain bikes. Since I now tour on a road bike, I stick with VERY available run of the mill, high quality parts; you just can’t always replace the esoteric. 3) Skinny tires — This isn’t exactly true. The last time I toured I bought Continental 35mm touring tires, and barely felt the road. The other benefit from those “skinny” tire is that they raise your low riders up front (If you are touring with a full set of panniers) high enough that they don’t rub when you corner. When I toured around the Big Island, I almost wore my front panniers through from them rubbing. When I toured along Highway One, I was on a road bike, and those “skinny” tires raised the panniers up high enough that it wasn’t a problem. 4) Triple rings — Touring bikes have had triple rings for years; these did originate with the advent of the mountain bike. As a matter of fact, you can buy Shimano 105′s now that accomodate a triple ring, and the STI road bike system will work with triple rings. I was going to switch over to triple rings on my last tour, but it wasn’t worth it to me.

 

I just got the biggest rear cluster Ultegra could handle on the rear and used a 39 chainring on the front, and I had pretty near a one to one ratio. I didn’t feel at all bent out of shape on the ride down Highway One. If I was in much steeper invironment, I would have had to make the switch. 5) Road bike market shrinking — Yes, I suppose it probably is, and this is a shame. Some of the old classic frame builders (Bob Jackson comes to mind) are still around, but too many of them have gone by the wayside. But I think this comes from the idea that a mountain bike gives the IMPRESSION of being more comfortable. A touring frame is a specialized bike; it is made with the specific purpose of providing you the most comfort for the longest period of time. A subsequent post to the original post speaks about touring being an incredible experience, regardless of what you ride. I thoroughly agree with this sentiment of not confusing the dancers with the dance. Touring is an incredible, intimate way to see the world; it’s a shame that not more people get out an do it.

Hardland Mountain Bikes

Just wanted to pass this info along that I got from Hardland’s price brochure. Hardland makes first class mtn bike frames. This Massachusetts based company and their hand built frames are truly second to none. (not to mention their aftermarket product prices are really fantastic!!!!!) The only caveat for these prices are for the Rock Shox. You must buy a Hardland frame to get this price for the Rock Shox.

 

(Rocks shocks rule to give away these things sooo cheap) On the other hand… the Shock Works, Cane Creek, and the Manitou prices are with or without frame… Believe me though, you would ultimately prefer with, as they ride so sweet. I have dealt with Hardland several times and they have always done way more than the normal call of duty when backing up their products and shipping orders.

 

I cant say enough about these folks. For a good example of this manufacturer’s ethic, see a post entitled “what a relief” that I posted in alt.mountain-bike, and RBOR, around May 8th. Need advice for upgrading or fixing and maintaining your mountain bike??? come to my web site its the best and its upgraded almost every day!!! so come soon before you miss out!!!!

City riding and off-road riding mountain bikes

Hybrids are nothing but a poor compromise. They are not as fast or agile as a road bike and not as strong as a mountain bike. Hybrids are nothing but a marketing gimmick. Cyclists should decide what type of riding they will do the most and buy that kind of bike. For fast road riding and road racing, a road bike. For city riding and off-road riding, a mountain bike. A good pair of slick, skinny tires will make any mountain bike a better and stronger machine than a hybrid. It’s a simple decision, really. The marketing machine of the bicycle industry makes it more complicated than it should be.

 

They are not as fast or agile as a road bike and not as strong as a mountain bike. Hybrids are nothing but a marketing gimmick. Cyclists should decide what type of riding they will do the most and buy that kind of bike. For fast road riding and road racing, a road bike. For city riding and off-road riding, a mountain bike. A good pair of slick, skinny tires will make any mountain bike a better and stronger machine than a hybrid. It’s a simple decision, really. The marketing machine of the bicycle industry makes it more complicated than it should be. Another incorrect believer in the “marketing controls our lives” theory. I’m an avid roadie, owning several and riding a lot. My son is a mountain biker.

 

When my wife decided she wanted a new bicycle, we both marketed her heavily as to why our preferences were right for her. But what she did was to ride a number of bikes from the LBSs. She ended up selecting a Trek 730, because the geometry, position and ride felt best to her. Maybe she will “outgrow” the hybrid someday and adopt either a road or MTB, or maybe she will continue to like the 730 as much as she does now. But even though they aren’t for me (or my son), I’m convinced that hybrids do fill a legitimate need and are not just a marketing gimmick. have been watching this with some amusement. I have 2 road bikes, a touring bike with drop handlebars, a mountain bike (My fifth in 8 years) and recently got an aluminium peugeot hybrid bike with coathanger handlebars on holiday in France. I put a Brooke’s Conquest saddle on it and a Girvin Flexstem (I love them) and it is unquestionably THE BEST BIKE I HAVE EVER OWNED. We have bad roads here and it laughs at them. The mountain bike style gearshifting is great and it is a lot faster and more forgiving than my mountain bike. I don’t need new arms after a long ride.

Tinker & Allison’s Mountain Bikes

I have both Tinker Juaraz and Allison Sydor’s Cannondale mountain bikes for sale. They come complete with the Faty 70 head shock, Koda cranks, V-breaks, those wicked chainrings, and everything else they had on their bikes. These bikes were spare bikes that they ended up using at the worlds only. They are in absolutly great condition and are worth more than 3000.00 easy. I am selling them for 2000.00 0.b.0 each with volvo cannondale race wheels included.What’s the big deal? If he didn’t mention that they were former race bikes from well-known pro riders, would anyone be questioning the guy?

 

The pro racers sell their old bikes just like the amateurs do. Gotta make room for those sweet ’98 Cannondales! Sometimes a bike is just a bike, and a deal is just a deal, not an international conspiracy. I have both Tinker Juaraz and Allison Sydor’s Cannondale mountain bikes for sale. They come complete with the Faty 70 head shock, Koda cranks, V-breaks, those wicked chainrings, and everything else they had on their bikes.

 

These bikes were spare bikes that they ended up using at the worlds only. They are in absolutly great condition and are worth more than 3000.00 easy. I am selling them for 2000.00 0.b.0 each with volvo cannondale race wheels included. I will also pay shipping. call me or E-mail me 847-367-6431 I highly doubt the validity of this claim!! If you cannot even spell “Fatty”, “Coda”, “brakes”, or list the model numbers….. I don’t know… Is this rec.bicycles.marketplace or bs.msmanners.goodgrammer? The above comment you refer to was not only taken care of privately but apologized for publicly on this newsgroup. And besides there is nothing wrong with good grammar or spelling

Best stock touring mountain bikes

Fine, the B-stone XO-2 WAS a good touring bike, as was the RB-T. But you may have noticed that that company does not sell bikes this side of the Pacific (this side of Asia for those in Europe . As for the Trek 520, I thought this was a hybrid with high-rise, flat bars. Sitll, lets say I am remembering wrong. Or lets just take Trek’s drop-bar touring bike (which I think goes for on the high side of $900). As you say you will want wider rubber ($40), and a 12-28 or whatever, preferable non-hyperglide ($30), you will also want to get rid of those blasted STI mongers which you just payed $100 for since you had no choice and put on some bar-ends ($60).

 

Also, since you switched your cogs, you need new chainrings to get decent gearing ($90), and of course you don’t want to tour with a Hyperglide chain, so figure in a Sachs ($20). So, to make the bike genuinely road worthy and a bit more maintainable we have to dump about $240 on top of our $900.Granted it’s less than the $2000 I said, but it’s still a big chunk more than one should have to spend. And still a bike with compromises (8 speeds I think, Alpine gearing and a micro-drive front deraileur paired with oversized rings, unless you replace all those parts too…)

 

Now don’t get me wrong, I have toured with FAR from ideal set-ups and enjoyed it. I just don’t think that any of the bikes on the market now are well designed for touring, and they could be. What I want to know is why noone else is building road bikes like B’stone? Ya know, good geometry and smart parts. Of course with Shitmano’s light action (read no return) super shifting (read overpriced and quick wearing) STI (read self-detonating) parts floding the market it’s no real surprise that it’s hard to build up a good, reasonably priced touring rig.I still think that the Specialized Expedition was one of the best stock touring bikes ever produced: sealed bearing hubs, bar-end shifters, full braze-ons (three for bottles + lowrider mounts !), and half-step plus grany gearing (same small steps as 8 speed with out rediculous dish or added weight). If I could build up a pefrect touring bike I would not change much from this design. Just my ramblings… I think when I can afford it I’m going to get a Bruce Gordon frame and custom speck it. It’ll cost a fortune, but it should last forever. Try Rivendell Bicycle Works, rivb…@aol.com. Same guy who designed the Bridgestone road bikes, XO series, and mountain bikes. He’ll even have parts he can sell to you! And I think you’ll find that Rivendell’s bikes will ride like Bridgestone’s.

Necessary accessories for mountain biking

I’m sorry, but you are one pathetic loser. I wish you were a plant on the side of a mtn bike trail so I could aply the brakes as I ran over you. You know if it wasn’t for people like you there would be no reason for people to do things out of spite, which is the people that you are always refering to, and not the majority.

 

Generalizing the entire mtn biking population(which is probably far greater than your weak enviromentalist clan, and remember, majority rules so resistance is futile) is pretty weak. Grow up and worry about something usefull. Again, how can I (we) believe anything you say when you are so far out of touch you resort to sweeping generalizations? What if I take a slick tire and ride through some cryptobiotic crust? I don’t think it would be much worse than a knobby tire.

 

Granted, the knobbies are usually wider, but to get that petty seems to be right up your alley. What are you talking about??? I said that knobby tires are very destructive. That’s just FACT. I didn’t say that you couldn’t do damage on other tires! ALL mountain biking is destructive, even on slicks. I am working on creating wildlife habitat that is off-limits to humans (“pure habitat”). Want to help? (I spent the previous 8 years fighting auto dependence and road construction.)

Scott brand mountain bikes

Anyone familiar with Scott mountain bikes? I’m looking at a “Peak” model and I don’t think Scott makes that model anymore. Just wondering what year model I may be looking at. It’s brand new sitting in a USAF BX overseas. I can pick it up for $199 dollars. It’s got pretty good components and an AL frame. I’m not planning on doing any aggressive riding, just want a nice light bike to commute, play, and tinker with. I’m really wanting feedback on the frame weight and quality. More than likely I’ll be upgrading different parts now and then.

 

A good frame will give me a solid base to work with. Should I grab this one ASAP or look elsewhere. Since colors change from year to year… if it helps in determining the year model…. it had two or three shades of light (powder?) blue on it. Thanks for the feedback folks! I just wanted to insure I wasn’t potentially buying a “department store” bike. What made me think this was the $199 price tag. Being that it’s a +/- 1999 model would explain the drop in price.

 

I’m finding that most of the Army and Air Force Exchange Service (AAFES) Base Exchanges (BX) or Post Exchanges (PX) rarely stock latest model signature brand bikes. Only the Huffy’s and Magna’s are new usually. The really good ones are usually a couple of years old. I”ll be taking a closer look at the Scott again this weekend…. gotta sell the wife on the idea as well.Pete… I’m at Lakenheath…. I have perused a few shops around the base. Found a cool looking Ammaco bike. It’s British made and looks pretty solid. It was about 150 to 190 pounds… I forget which price. It would be cool to go back to the US sporting a British made bike. I just bought a road bike a few months ago.. the wife isn’t hot on the idea of me jumping in and buying a mtb so soon. That Scott Peak for 200 bucks ain’t a bad deal though. We’ll see… sure having fun looking at the bikes while I’m just shopping. I’ve been at Columbus AFB, MS : Little Rock AFB, AR : Howard AB, Panama : RAF Lakenheath, UK : hoping for Warner-Robins, GA next (wife’s hometown).