Repair and Maintenance Tips for Mountain Bikes

When you are looking for a mountain bike you will notice that they don’t come any cheap. Most of them cost an average of $1000 and above. Good ones can be brought for $2000 or $3000. It all depends on the features and comfort you need in your bike. When you are paying such a huge amount of money on a bike it your responsibility to maintain in good condition by avoiding any big problems. Learning some methods to look after you mountain bike will ensure the longevity of you bike. This will also save a huge sum of money. The cost for servicing and repairing a mountain bike can cost you as much as the bike itself.

 

The first and the foremost thing to do is, keep your bike clean. Dirt accumulated in the bike will take its toll on the life of the tire. Dirt can restrict the proper functioning of the chains and the handlebar. All this things clearly shows how much difference it makes while keeping your bike clean and neat. It is really a talent if you can fix a flat tire. It takes a little skill. You should know how to remove the tire and then opening the tube fixing the hole and replacing the tire. Flat tire is a common problem for mountain bike. This is mainly due to the rough terrain in which you are riding your bike. Investing in a puncture repair kit is a very good idea. Then there is the chain tool. Broken and loose chain is a common problem for mountain bikes. Chain tool will help you to remove and replace any broken links in the chain.

 

It will be handy to learn how to adjust the chain rings. This is needed especially for bikes with more than 4 gears. Adjusting the chain ring is to be done whenever the rear tire is removed and replaced. Lubrication is another thing to keep your attention on. Unlubricated parts tend to become damaged easily. The brake and clutch cables should be lubricated regularly. This is one thing you should never forget, especially when riding in a mountain terrain. It is the lubrication which maintains the cables without braking. Then there is the engine oil change, which is to be done as per the need of the vehicle. This will sustain the life of the motorcycle engine for a longer time.

 

As a rider, you should be well connected with your mountain bike. You should be able to distinguish between the various sounds produced by your vehicle. Any irregular sounds or noises should be attended as soon as possible and should give the proper repair that it needs. Most common noticeable change in sounds is from the chain. A loose chain can damage the chain socket and will make you spend some money to get it replaced. Then there may be sounds from the brake pads rubbing with the tires and making unwanted noises. These are just some of the tips you should know for yourselves. This does not mean that you should never take your bike to a service center.

Points to ponder regarding Mountain Bikes and Habitat

Well at the risk of being flamed some more, we have different ideas of back country. There is off road and then there is back country. Until the cycle group got on this newsgroup it was primarily devoted to discussion of wildeness trips, tents, stoves, other gear, avoiding bears, etc. The only mechanical or motorized discussions involed the use of motors on boats in some northern lakes. Now I have not seen a bike in the mid sierra for many years. I have seen some in the Tahoe area but most backcountry as discussed here is off limits to cycles.

 

I am not anti cycling, I ride 75-120 mi. a week when not hiking. I am just saying that this newsgroup was more concerned with wilderness travel and hiking, some canoing but no mechanized travel until Vandeman cross posted here. Cross posting is rude anyway. Now a third of this group has vandeman and all the flaming that goes on clogging it up. So, maybe you can explain to me just what you call backcountry. Do you mean ‘off-trail’? If so, that’s just not true. Mostly, the terrain is not ‘bikable’ off-trail. If ‘off-road’ means off bigger trails with a solid underground (gravel, asphalt), I don’t understand the point: Why don’t you accuse those building these roads?

 

They did the real damage. because that is just the nature of the sport, just as ALL bulldozer racers damage the land and its inhabitants. There is no such thing as “responsible mountain biking” (except relatively speaking), just as there is no such thing as “responsible bulldozer racing” or “responsible atomic warfare”. The pure human existance is irresponsible, isn’t it? Recall, that your house was build on ground which once has been perfect backcountry. You could also live in a large skyscraper or even better underground structure, this would consume less valuable terrain. Seriously, where would you draw the line dividing ‘good’ and ‘evil’? Have you thought about the neither good nor evil, which makes up the biggest part? Obviously, I am exaggerating in order to make the point perfectly clear. Yes:

 

You are good, mountain bikers are evil, by principle. (should I better say ‘postulate’?) It also makes sense to generalize, when the description fits the vast majority of the group. I assume that not all mountain bikers are liars, but I haven’t met any yet, either in person or on the Internet. Either, you are very very lonely, or, you are talking absolutely big shit rubbish. So I am still asking “why do mountain bikers feel it necessary to lie, to make their case?” If I were doing statistics, this would be both scientific and justifiable, like the generalization “Americans speak english”. Why do some self-announced ‘experts for nature’ feel that they are the better humans, more intelligent, more ethical, more responsible? I know a Professor of Biology who ripped out a very rare flower on an excursion he was making with students. When the students protested he just answered: ‘I am the expert, I need it for my scientific studies – shut up you ignorant students.’ Now, who is more intelligent, more ethical, more responsible? This subject does seem to have the same universal lack of science and excess of emotion as I have experienced over the last few years in the New Forest. In the New Forest cyclists had unlimited access up until cars were banned in the 70′s which then automatically banned cycles.

Mountain Bike World

I’ve spent the last 2 1/2 months hiking almost constantly doing research for the 3rd edition of our book, “Hiking Idaho.” Maybe Idaho is some exception, but I haven’t seen a single mountain biker, although a few trails showed the tracks of one or two bikes. My view is that any environmental effects that I have seen is trivial. On the other hand, ATVs (4-wheelers — those machines that look like toy tanks) have widened many trails so that they are really little roads. Some of the hikes in our previous edition will have to be deleted due to this kind of trail degradation (which is usually coupled with off-trail hill climbing tracks).

 

Another problem is ATVs in informal RV campsites on public land. It seems in many cases the ATVs are for the kids to ride while mom, dad, or whoever sits in the shade and gets drunk, watches television in the RV, or whatever. The kids usually don’t know anything about nature, and unwittingly tear up the meadows, hills, and ride through the creeks.You know ; out here where i ride on the Central Coast of California; I ride in a National park called Montana De Oro. We have plenty of designated trails for mountainbikes and the Equestrians ride on them too. I slow down and I’m curtious to them when they pass etc.

 

One thing s , Mountainbikers cant ride some trails that are designated “Horse Trails” That’s okay but; THE HORSES TEAR UP THE TRAILS WAAAAAAY MORE THAN A MOUNTAINBIKE DOES. MY BIKE DOESNT SHIT ALL OVER THE TRAILS Once again you proved my point: mountain bikers ignore the damage THEY do, and just try to rationalize it by finding someone else doing more damage. Of course, that is specious reasoning. NOTHING that equestrians do has any bearing on the damage that mountain bikers do! I am working on creating wildlife habitat that is off-limits to humans (“pure habitat”). Want to help? (I spent the previous 8 years fighting auto dependence and road construction.)

Hardland Mountain Bikes

If you are looking for a frame style that is quite active when seated, and works like a hardtail when standing (meaning that you can hammer away at climbs without all the bobbing) then this is a way to go. The basic idea with URT’s is to have a frame that can have a plush ride when you are seated and a stiff ride when you are standing or pedalling. This basically equates to something that sprints and climbs well. But, hey, maybe you don’t care to accelerate up a hill…

 

Maybe you never stand when you climb. Maybe you don’t climb at all. Don’t worry too much though, not all of us ride as hard as others. If you are going to now say something about bobbing when seated, then my response will simply be: Improve your cadence, and learn to pedal circles. So, in retort to your sophomoric reply… On Mon, 24 May 1999 17:14:57 -0700, “G.T.” wrote: Wait, aren’t they pathetic low pivot URTs? Uh, sure… just like trek Y-bikes, the klein mantra, gary fisher joshua’s, and other various sweet spot designs… and all these bikes suck eh? I think not.

 

“Leading edge” and “clever balance of sound engineering and design”? They must be joking, right? Low-pivot URTs are HISTORY!!! And these guys are using it for their DH bike! I actually agree with you here… I would rather see a MacPherson design or Lawwill linkage for a DH application… But history??? I don’t think so… Their copy on their website sounds like the marketing for a Murray. If the above gibberish means that they don’t have a 20 million dollar website all decked out in shockwave, java, and activeX garbage, then you are right. Hardland doesn’t pay someone an exorbitant amount of money to make a fancy webpage. They spend more time and money on things that are important–and don’t pass this expense on to their customers.

Norco Mountain bikes

What the heck Raleigh are you talking about??? My girlfriend bout an M-400 that had all STX-RC and LX V-brakes for 600 bucks that kicked the ass in terms of eq set up for any thing else in it’s range. Raleigh is not a department store bike and I have no clue where you got that idea. Yeah Huffy and Murray suck but don’t try to stick Raleigh in there when you have no clue what you are talking about. And I ride a Fisher so no I am not partial to Raleigh I just have no clue where you are coming from.

 

She loves the bike btw and I researched it for her and nothing else even came close. Alum frame too. well there was a few postings a while ago about the different raleighs. but Im afraid ‘the terminator’ is right (well kinda) .over here we also have these really crappy department store bikes called raleighs. But then theres a different (well they must be) raleigh that makes pretty decent bikes (like the one you bought).

 

The authorities then ignored cyclists and they were tolerated in the forest. When MOUNTAIN BIKING became popular in the 90′s we saw an orchestrated campaign in the local papers full of all the non-scientific opinion which led to the banning of MOUNTAIN BIKES from all but gravel tracks. Due to the politics of the management of the forest MOUNTAIN BIKES are still a target for ill informed ranting and we are still under threat of losing access. The Forestry Commission experts will privately confirm that they do not consider cyclists a threat to the majority of the forest, there are some sandy areas where erosion is a problem, but they cannot be publicly vocal due to the forest politics.

Slicks for mountain bikes

Tread is not required for clean wet pavement on a bicycle. According to Jobst Brandt’s calculations you’d have to go much faster than we ride to hydroplane one. However tread helps when riding over wet leaves. And a slick I have with siping grooves handles those better than my completely slick tires – but the completely slick tires are faster. > I think the Continental Town & Country will be good for the mountain bikes but I have no idea what would serve best for the BMX bike.

 

I might choose any slick but the Contis, simply because of their reputation for a tight fit and difficult flat fixes. I think there are slicks for the BMX bikes, since there are small wheeled bents and folders that use slicks. Amen to that brother! I have a pair of Conti “Goliaths”, and though they are a nice tire, they are a PAIN to try and install. Darn near broke my thumb trying to push that last bit of bead over the rim… For the BMX bike, get the Maxxis Hookworms or Ringworms. Any “flatlander” tire made for “freestyle” bmx bikes will work, but these two are readily available and have 110 psi casings (they’re our best seller, especially the black/orange/grey and the black/white/black versions) The Hookworms have the smoothest tread, but the Ringworms may be better for the kids as an all-round tire.

Coyote Mountain Bikes

Have you ever ridden a ‘bent? My ‘bent is not intended for offroad use, but I can guarantee that I can see farther ahead and more of what’s going on around me while I’m sitting in a full upright position than I can while perched on the saddle of my mountain bike, and I don’t have to strain my neck to do it. Second, probably more important, is that there is no way to unweight the bike when you hop over an obstacle, so all the shock goes right up your back, in the unlikely event that you clear the obstacle in the first place.

 

Just try riding a recumbent up a square curb. No problem on a regular bike, big problem on a recumbent. It’s true that you can’t unweight the seat. However, your comments about the shock travelling up your spine as a result are untrue, at least in the case of my ‘bent, a Trek R200. It has a Cane Creek AD5 shock in the back, and a thick, cushy Rans seat that effectively isolate the spine from jolts and vibrations. Unlike road racing, mountain bike competition has no restrictions on what you can ride. If recuments were effective, we would have seen one by now. As I see it, the main problem with ‘bents offroad is the inability to shift your weigh forward to keep the front end down on steep climbs.

 

The other problem is the small wheel size on many ‘bents. I have 20″ wheels fore and aft and they tend to drop into holes that my mtb wheels roll right over. IIRC, the offroad BikeE model has an even smaller front wheel – like 14″ or 16″ – even more likely to fall into holes. Guess again, Pokey. My head is at the same height on my ‘bent as it is on my mtb – about sports car window height. And people *notice* ‘bents. You don’t fade into the background. Still, on any bike, it’s safest to assume that motorists don’t see you at all and ride accordingly. > and the aerodynamic properties are way ahead > of diamond frames. True. Recumbents have an unfair advantage over diamond frames. You can’t get out of the saddle to change your position, You don’t need to.

 

The seat is comfortable enough that you can sit and spin for hours without developing painful pressure points. No sore butt or wrists, no saddle sores, no numb hands, no tired shoulders, neck or back. Your legs and your lungs are the only limit to your cruising range. you can’t unweight on rough ground, and drafting is pretty difficult. Again, have you ever actually ridden a ‘bent? Drafting is not difficult, at least no more so than on a diamond frame. And besides, how often is the ability to draft a concern for the average cyclist? When you come to a stop, putting a foot down is difficult. Bullshit once again. Unclip, put a foot down, how hard is that? There is probably more. I see recumbents around on the road now and then, but they are not going to take over any time soon. I see more and more of them around these days. They are the ultimate choice for touring – comfortable, easy to ride, and you can enjoy the scenery around you.

Best mountain bikes under $400 US?

I’m looking to purchase a mountain bike and would like to know the best deals for under $400 US. Any feedback from owners of bikes in this price range would be of great help. I would also like to know if their are any good web sites devoted to mountain bike reviews. Like Mike said, read mtbr.com with a grain of salt. If everyone says a product is great except one clown who said he was doing drops from the roof of his house and the product broke and after repeatedly trying to get a new part for free, and not getting one, he’d never buy the part again, don’t listen to the guy.

 

Downhillers will trash cross country parts for being weak, and cross country riders will trash downhill parts for being heavy. Toss out the glowing reviews (especially when the reviewer says that they “just bought the part” ) and toss out the worst reviews (unless there are a lot of them), and you’ll probably get a good idea about the product.

 

I have a nice Specialized HardRock, cost $300 near enough. It has mediocre components by most standards, a rigid fork, and a seat like a cememt pillow, but if you include a few tools, helmet and a eat that fits my butt better, it still comes to under $400. The kid just got a newer version of the same thing with a sus fork, 350+/- Having said that, I rode a $80 Murray “Mountain Bike” for 15 years and it did fine except for the problems yours seems to have.

City riding and off-road riding mountain bikes

Hybrids are nothing but a poor compromise. They are not as fast or agile as a road bike and not as strong as a mountain bike. Hybrids are nothing but a marketing gimmick. Cyclists should decide what type of riding they will do the most and buy that kind of bike. For fast road riding and road racing, a road bike. For city riding and off-road riding, a mountain bike. A good pair of slick, skinny tires will make any mountain bike a better and stronger machine than a hybrid. It’s a simple decision, really. The marketing machine of the bicycle industry makes it more complicated than it should be.

 

They are not as fast or agile as a road bike and not as strong as a mountain bike. Hybrids are nothing but a marketing gimmick. Cyclists should decide what type of riding they will do the most and buy that kind of bike. For fast road riding and road racing, a road bike. For city riding and off-road riding, a mountain bike. A good pair of slick, skinny tires will make any mountain bike a better and stronger machine than a hybrid. It’s a simple decision, really. The marketing machine of the bicycle industry makes it more complicated than it should be. Another incorrect believer in the “marketing controls our lives” theory. I’m an avid roadie, owning several and riding a lot. My son is a mountain biker.

 

When my wife decided she wanted a new bicycle, we both marketed her heavily as to why our preferences were right for her. But what she did was to ride a number of bikes from the LBSs. She ended up selecting a Trek 730, because the geometry, position and ride felt best to her. Maybe she will “outgrow” the hybrid someday and adopt either a road or MTB, or maybe she will continue to like the 730 as much as she does now. But even though they aren’t for me (or my son), I’m convinced that hybrids do fill a legitimate need and are not just a marketing gimmick. have been watching this with some amusement. I have 2 road bikes, a touring bike with drop handlebars, a mountain bike (My fifth in 8 years) and recently got an aluminium peugeot hybrid bike with coathanger handlebars on holiday in France. I put a Brooke’s Conquest saddle on it and a Girvin Flexstem (I love them) and it is unquestionably THE BEST BIKE I HAVE EVER OWNED. We have bad roads here and it laughs at them. The mountain bike style gearshifting is great and it is a lot faster and more forgiving than my mountain bike. I don’t need new arms after a long ride.

Mountain bikes on pavement

This is a topic that every manufacturer thinks about all the time. Mountain bikes are big sellers because they’re fashionable, just as ‘choppers’ were when I was a kid, and stingrays before that. Most MTB’s sold are never or almost never ridden on dirt. The biggest question, to me, is, where and how much will you end up riding? If you are unfamiliar with bicycling, your best bet is probably not to spend too much. If you end up not riding much, you’re not out much. Bike manufacturers don’t like this kind of advice. OTOH, if you catch the ‘bug’, you’ll want something better, anyway. Not cyclists think $100K cars are way cool, but laugh at the thought of spending a mere $1K on a bike.

 

But, if you get serious, you’ll most likely end up spending close to this. So, to try to answer your question: it sounds like you want a road bike. They’re lighter and more efficient on smooth and almost smooth surfaces. You can always put more aggressive (and wider) tires on it, if the terrain calls for it.Mountain bikes on pavement don’t make sense, unless maybe you’re only out for a slow ride in the park. Hybrids are great for city riding, particularly in the case where the city streets aren’t well-maintained. I had to give up riding my roadbike around Boston, it was getting trashed from hitting and hopping potholes at speed.

 

A mountain bike, while slower and more difficult to ride, easily takes that kind of abuse. In spite of being unpopular, cyclocross bikes are very good for knocking around town.Far better than most of what are being sold as hybrids. Unless your roads look like they suffered a bombing run, a road bike with wider tires is probably all that you need. Many road bikes will take tires as large as 28mm which should be enough tire to protect rims from the occasional pot hole. Of course Any bike with down turned bars is so de’ mode’ these days. I’m the same guy who has to suffer through comments like “Kewl, retro!” and “Hey look at the bike with all the antique Campi parts!” every time I wander into the local bike shop so don’t listen to me. If my tours of bike racks is any indication, most cyclists now seem to require a mountain bike with knobbies, handlebar extensions and a suspension fork to ride a few blocks to class even on freshly paved roads.